On top of the Nilachal Hills in the western part of Guwahati lies the sacred and most visited sight in Assam, the Kamakhya Temple. Every year in mid-June, for four consecutive days, the revered Kamakhya Temple witnesses a large congregation of Tantrik sadhus and devotees during the Ambubachi Mela.
It is the celebration of the annual menstruation cycle of the temple’s presiding deity, Devi Kamakhya. She is regarded as Mother Earth and the goddess of desire, and is believed to grant salvation. Her temple is one of the fifty-one Shakti Peethas spread across the Indian subcontinent.
It is believed that during the fair, the productive and nourishing menstruation of Mother Earth is accessible to devotees at the temple. This fascinating belief makes the fair so special, and millions of devotees from across the country and abroad gather in and around the temple, making Ambubachi Mela the Kumbh of Northeast India.
Maa Kamakhya is a form of Devi Mahamaya or Durga. It is said that the Devi used to manifest here in many forms—Rupa—as a virgin and also as the spouse of Lord Shiva. In her amorous form, or ‘Sambhoga Rupa’, she is Goddess Kama, and the name Kamakhya is believed to have been derived from her association with love and desire.
According to sacred texts, this is the place where her Yoni fell after Lord Shiva performed the Tandava while carrying her corpse. Perhaps this is why there is no idol inside the main temple hall. Instead, the sanctum contains a naturally formed stone representing a vulva, with a natural spring flowing from it.
Kamakhya Temple signifies fertility, sex and procreation. This ancient Shakti Peetha therefore has great significance among Tantrik and Shakti devotees. Because of its close connection with tantra, mantra and Siddhi, the festival is also known as a Tantrik Fertility Festival. Many Tantriks who rarely make a public appearance can be seen during these four days.
The temple doors remain closed for the first three days and reopen on the fourth day for devotees to receive the blessings of the goddess after she is believed to have regained her purity. During the first three days, sadhus meditate, perform yogic practices and sing devotional songs in their pursuit of spiritual consciousness.
Local Beliefs and Practices During the Ambubachi Mela
– Many temples in Assam remain closed during the Ambubachi Mela, and daily worship or religious activities are traditionally suspended.
– Farmers traditionally refrain from going to the fields, and ploughing the earth is avoided.
– Widows traditionally observe dietary restrictions during the first three days.
– Plucking fruits and flowers from trees is traditionally avoided.
– On the fourth day, houses are thoroughly cleaned, and clothes, bedsheets and other items used during the previous three days are washed.
History and Legend of Kamakhya Temple
According to archaeological evidence, the Kamakhya Temple is believed to have been constructed between the 8th and 9th centuries by the rulers of the Mlechchha dynasty. During the period of the Pala rulers of Kamarupa, it became an important centre of Tantrikism.
Over its long history, the temple was destroyed and rebuilt several times during the medieval period. The present-day structure is the result of reconstruction efforts made during the rule of the Koch and Ahom dynasties.
There is also a legend associated with the Koch royal family. According to the story, the Koch Bihar royal family was cursed by the Devi and was forbidden from entering the temple. The legend further claims that descendants of the Koch dynasty avoided looking directly towards the Nilachal Hill while passing through the area.
One popular story concerns the late Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur, who belonged to the Koch Bihar royal family. When she was travelling to Guwahati, she was reportedly informed that the Kamakhya Temple could be seen from an aircraft while landing at the airport. According to the story, she changed her flight route from Kolkata to Silchar and preferred to travel to Guwahati by road.
How to Reach Kamakhya Temple
To visit Kamakhya Temple, one has to first reach Guwahati. Kamakhya Railway Station is the nearest railway station, while Guwahati Airport is approximately 19 km away.
Direct city buses are available from major parts of Guwahati such as Pan Bazaar, Paltan Bazaar and Khanapara.
Taxi services are also available from different parts of the city. Shared taxis can be hired from the foothills of Nilachal Hill.
During the Ambubachi Mela, however, restrictions on vehicular movement can make reaching the temple by road difficult. Walking up the historic stone-cut staircase from Mekhelaujua can be a practical option during the festival.
Experience the Ambubachi Mela
Ambubachi Mela fills Guwahati with colour and energy. The streets are lit up and markets remain busy throughout the day and night.
Even for an atheist, visiting the Kamakhya Temple during Ambubachi Mela can be a fascinating cultural experience. Folk musicians, including performers from West Bengal, enthral visitors with lively renditions of Baul songs. The atmosphere can create a hypnotic, almost trance-like experience.
The mela also attracts photographers and videographers because of the colourful events taking place throughout the four days. Sadhus and Sannyasinis dressed in saffron, black, blue and red can be seen throughout the festival, while yogis performing unusual yogic practices provide some of the most striking sights.
Become a part of Ambubachi Mela, one of the largest religious gatherings in Northeast India, and experience the fascinating traditions associated with the Tantrik tradition of Hinduism.
Come here to witness how ancient beliefs, rituals and traditions continue to draw people together and remain deeply rooted in contemporary India.
